Fashion-ology
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This new edition of a classic work offers a concise introduction to the sociology of fashion, and demystifies the workings of the fashion system. From the origins of fashion studies and the difference between clothing and fashion, through to an examination of 21st century subcultures, and the impact of the digital age on designers, Fashion-ology explores fashion as a global, institutionalized system.
With accessible overviews of key debates, issues and perspectives, Yuniya Kawamura provides a complete exploration of the field. Two two new chapters have been added for this third edition, covering 'The Diversification and Changing Landscapes of Fashion Systems' and 'Ecological and Social Sustainability in Fashion' respectively. There's also more on:- the metaverse as the latest fashion system- the de-Westernization of fashion- postmodern discourse on fashion's relationship to race, gender and class- social media as consumption, production, evaluation, and marketing- fashion weeks, including Modest Fashion Week, Black Fashion Week, the Global Sustainability Fashion Week, and Queer Fashion WeekThere's also a guide to sociological research in fashion, making this essential reading for anyone studying fashion, sociology, anthropology, or cultural studies.
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- Bloomsbury UK
- 9781350331891
- 9781350331860
- ePub
- 3
- Yuniya Kawamura
- English
- 2023-07-13
- 100
- 10
- 10
Kaflar
- Cover
- Half-title Page
- Dedication Page
- Series Page
- Title Page
- Contents
- List of Tables
- Preface
- 1 Introduction
- Etymology of Fashion
- Fashion as a Concept and a Phenomenon
- Proponents and Opponents of Fashion
- Fashion as a Subject of Intellectual Discussion
- The Feminization of Fashion
- Female Opponents of Fashion
- Female Proponents of Fashion
- Studies of Fashion in Social Sciences
- The Use of Visual Materials as Evidence
- Quantitative Methods
- Outline of the Book
- Guide to Further Reading
- 2 Sociological Discourse and Empirical Studies of Fashion
- Classical Sociological Discourse of Fashion
- Fashion as Imitation
- Fashion as Class Distinction: Inclusion and Exclusion
- Fashion as Social Custom
- Fashion, Modernity, and Social Mobility
- The Origin of the Fashion Phenomenon
- Sociological Studies of Fashion since the Mid-Twentieth Century
- Fashion as Collective Selection
- Fashion and the Sociology of Culture
- Fashion as a Manufactured Cultural Symbol
- Youth Subcultures in Fashion Research
- The Theoretical Foundation of Subcultures
- Post-subcultural Theories and Contemporary Youth Subcultures
- Gender and Race in Modern and Postmodern Fashion Discourse
- Conclusion
- Guide to Further Reading
- 3 Fashion as an Institutionalized System: From Paris to the Mediatized World
- Theoretical Framework of Fashion-ology
- Fashion as a Myth Supported by the System
- Different Approaches to Fashion Systems
- The Beginning of the Fashion System
- Fashion Production as Collective Activity
- Empirical Study: The French Fashion System as a Prototype
- The Institutionalization of French Fashion
- The Decentralization of Fashion Geography from Paris to the World
- The Impact of Technology in the Changing Fashion Systems
- Technology and a Changing Occupational Structure in Fashion
- Conclusion
- Guide to Further Reading
- 4 Designers and Consumers: The Personification of Fashion
- Designers in the Studies of Fashion
- Designers, Creativity, and Social Structure
- Legitimation of the Designer’s Creativity
- The Star System of Designers
- The Star Designers since the Turn of the Twentieth Century
- Hierarchy among Designers in the Fashion System
- The Adoption and Consumption of Fashion
- Consumption: A Historical Perspective
- Consumer Revolution
- Consuming Fashion as Symbolic Strategy
- Social Visibility of Fashion
- Consumers as Active Fashion Producers and Influencers
- Conclusion
- Guide to Further Reading
- 5 The Production, Gatekeeping, and Diffusion of Fashion
- Diffusion Theories of Fashion
- Influential Leaders of Fashion Diffusion
- Institutional Diffusion
- Sociological Theories of Fashion Diffusion
- Gatekeepers: Making Aesthetic Judgments
- Fashion Journalists
- Fashion Magazine Editors
- Diffusion Strategies from Fashion Dolls to Fashion Shows
- Fashion Dolls
- Fashion Shows
- The Significance of Fashion Shows
- Technological Influences on Fashion Diffusion
- Fashion Propaganda through Advertising
- Trickle-up and Trickle-across Diffusions of Fashion
- Subcultural Commercialization as a Trickle-up Process and Legitimation
- Trickle-across Theory in Practice: A Collapse of Categorical Boundaries
- Social Media Influencers as Gatekeepers and Disseminators
- Conclusion
- Guide to Further Reading
- 6 The Diversification and Changing Landscapes of the Fashion Systems
- The Four Leading Fashion Cities and Fashion Weeks
- The Second-Tier Fashion Cities and Theme-Focused Fashion Weeks
- Second-Tier Fashion Cities
- Theme-Based and Specialized Fashion Week
- Youth Subcultures as an Alternative Fashion System
- Punk as a Prototype of a Less Structured Alternative Fashion System
- The Emergence of Mediated and Virtual Subcultures
- The Metaverse as the Latest Fashion System
- Fashion’s Participation in the Metaverse with NFTs
- Digital Fashion Week and Metaverse Fashion Shows
- Conclusion
- Guide to Further Reading
- 7 Ecological and Social Sustainability in Fashion
- The United Nations Sustainable Development Goals (SDGs)
- Environmental Performance Index (EPI) by Yale University
- UN Alliance for Sustainable Fashion
- Ecological Sustainability
- Eco-Fashion: Responsible Clothing and Textile Production and Reuse
- Natural Wastes and Next-Gen Bio-Based Alternative Material Innovations
- Secondhand, Used Clothing Markets
- Social Sustainability
- Human Exploitation and Exposure to Physical Danger
- Unethical Labor Conditions
- The Impact of “The True Cost” Documentary
- The Uyghur Muslim Community in China
- Sustainability Certification Standards for Clothing and Textiles Productions
- Governments’ Regulations on Sustainability
- The Evolution of Status Symbols: From Wasteful Consumption to Conscientious Consumption
- Eco-Friendly and Sustainable Lifestyle as a New Status Symbol
- Conclusion
- Guide to Further Reading
- Conclusion
- Appendix: Practical Guide to Sociological Research in Fashion and Dress
- Notes
- References
- Index
- Copyright Page